How To Draft & Sew Underarm Gussets For (Almost) Any Garment | Easy Tutorial
Binding sleeves are the worst! Gussets are not the only way that I like to add mobility to the sleeves of my dresses and blouses, but they are definitely the quickest and easiest, if I'm not in the mood to do pattern alterations!
I forgot to mention in the video that if your garment pattern has notches in the lower armseye and sleeve, within the bottom 3" of your seamline, you will need to both mark them on your gusset, and differentiate between the "sleeve side" of your gusset and the "body side".
If this is the case, mark your dots on the body pattern pieces as shown, but draft your gusset before placing any dots on your sleeve pattern pieces. When you have your gusset drafted as far as I show in the video, set it aside and look at your blouse/bodice pattern. Measure the distance from the side seam on your blouse/bodice back to the back notches, along the seamline. Mark notches on your gusset the same distance from the "side seam" dot. Measure the distance between the side seam and front notch on your blouse/bodice pattern, and mark it accordingly on the other side of your gusset's "side seam" dot. These marks should both be along the lower curved edge of your gusset. Now measure the distance between the underarm seam and the back notches on your sleeve, along the seamline, and mark them on the upper curved edge of your gusset, the same distance from the upper "side seam" dot. Make sure you do this on the same end of the gusset as the back notches on the lower edge. Measure and mark the front sleeve notch along the upper curved edge of your gusset in the same manner. (Example: The left side of your gusset would have double notches along the upper curved edge, for the sleeve, and the lower curved edge, for the back body. The right side of your gusset would have a single notch along the upper curve edge, for the sleeve, and another along the lower curved edge, for the front body.)
Next, measure the distance from the back notches to the back dot along the blouse/bodice back seamline. Mark a dot on your sleeve seamline at the same distance from the back notches. Measure the distance between the front notch and dot along the front bodice/blouse seamline, and mark it on the front of your sleeve in the same way as for the back.
Pin and sew as shown, easing the sleeve into the gusset as necessary.
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