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There you stand in the baking aisle, and before you sit two containers of dark chocolate powder that look for all the world the same. But one is labeled cacao, spelled with an a in the middle, and the other is labeled cocoa, the plain old word we all grew up with. And often enough the one marked cacao costs you a good bit more. So a sensible person wonders. Is this just a fancy spelling? Some clever bit of marketing, a new-sounding word on the same old powder to charge me extra? Or is there a real difference?
There is a real difference, and it is a genuinely interesting one, though not the mystery the fancy label might suggest. Both come from the very same seed, off the very same tree. They begin as the same thing exactly. And yet by the time they reach your shelf, they have traveled two different roads and been treated two different ways, and that treatment is the whole of the difference.
I am Elias Yoder. I am Amish, and I farm in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. Now I will tell you plainly, the cacao tree is no crop of mine. It grows only in the hot, wet lands near the middle of the earth, and never in a Lancaster County field. So I come to this not as a grower, but as a curious man who wondered at those two labels, and who does know a good deal, from my own kitchen and my wife Esther's, about the one thing that truly separates them, which is heat, and what heat does to what we cook. And let me give honest credit to the old peoples of those warm far lands who first grew and prized this seed long ago.
What I walk you through:
✔ That cacao and cocoa are the very same seed, from the same tree, with no different plant for the one and the other
✔ That the two words are really the same word: cacao is the older form, and over long years of European trade it slowly shifted in the mouth and on the page into cocoa
✔ How both start down the same road: the pods harvested and cracked, the seeds left to ferment and dry in the warm sun
✔ Where the road forks, and the one thing that parts them: heat
✔ Cacao, the gentle road: little or no roasting, so it stays nearer the raw seed, keeping its earthy, sharply bitter flavor and more of the natural good it started with, its minerals like magnesium
✔ Cocoa, the roasted road: roasted at a good strong heat, which deepens it and brings out that warm, rich, sweet, mellow taste we all know, and often given an alkaline wash (Dutch processing) that softens its sharpness and helps it dissolve smooth
✔ Which is better, and the honest answer: neither. Each gained something and gave up something. The wise cook chooses by what the dish and the moment call for
The plain old kitchen wisdom underneath it all: heat and roasting are always a trade. They are never a pure gain and never a pure loss. Put a thing to the fire and you gain a warmth and richness that was not there in the raw, and you give up some of its freshness and natural good, both at once. Any cook who has worked at a stove for years knows this. There is a time to keep a thing raw and a time to roast it deep, and knowing which is which, and fitting the treatment to the purpose, is a great part of the whole craft of cooking.
This is one of a series on Elias Yoder Explains, where I take the ordinary things of daily life that everybody handles and nobody really understands, and explain them plainly, the way the careful old folks understood them.
Tell me in the comments below. Did you know cacao and cocoa were really the same seed, just treated two different ways, or did you always take that fancy label for marketing? And which do you keep in your own kitchen, and what do you make with it, a rich winter hot chocolate, a cake from a grandmother's receipt? Tell me how you use it. I read every single one.
Next video: what truly happens when coffee beans are roasted, why the same bean roasted light or dark makes such different brews, and the plain old sense behind it. Subscribe so you do not miss it.
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