Film "CHINA: Kora around Mount Kailash"
Tibet is one of the holiest places on earth for Hindus and Buddhists. It is home to numerous monasteries, temples, spiritual schools, and "places of power."
Mount Kailash, or Kailash, is referred to in ancient scrolls as the center of the world. In addition to the sacred lakes of Manosarovar and Rakshas Tal, the source of four rivers sacred to Buddhists and Hindus lies nearby. Among them are the Indus and the Brahmaputra, a tributary of the Ganges.
In Tibet, pilgrims walk clockwise around the monasteries, stupas, and sacred mountain. And even inside the temples. All of this is called kora. And the most important of these—kora with a capital kora—is the ritual circumambulation of Mount Kailash.
To enhance the kora's effect, a special rite of worship—the nendra—is performed. Pilgrims recite mantras, spin prayer wheels, and the most devout regularly perform prostration—a full-length prostration that ends with a full-length prostration on the ground. By circumambulating the shrine in this manner, the devotee measures the path of worship with their body.
Tourists often view the kora as just one of the high-altitude hiking trails. But even so, it demands the trekkers exert all their spiritual and physical strength.
When traveling to Tibet, one must be prepared for long journeys between settlements, poor roads, changing weather, and—most importantly—altitude sickness. After all, the journey takes place at altitudes ranging from three and a half to five and a half thousand meters.
Valery Shanin travels through Tibet, researching tourist routes. Most tourists require a special permit and a guide. The journey begins in Lhasa, the capital of Tibet, located at an altitude of 3,650 meters. The city was long the residence of the Dalai Lamas, but now the majority of the population is Chinese.
The Jokhang Temple remains the spiritual center, and Drepung Monastery was once a major Buddhist university. The ruins of a Bon monastery, destroyed during the struggle between Buddhists and followers of the Bon religion, remain in the Drilung Valley.
To reach the beginning of the kora around Mount Kailash, several days are needed, visiting temples and cave cities. The road follows the Lhasa River. Shigatse is considered the second capital of Tibet and is home to Palden Lhamo Monastery, the residence of the Panchen Lama. Yamdrok Lake is one of Tibet's sacred lakes, nestled among snow-capped peaks.
In the Garuda Valley lies the ancient cave city of Tulung, also known as the Silver Palace of Garuda or Shambhala. Here, tourists can sample Tibetan tea. On the way back, they can visit the hot springs.
Guru Gyamgpa Monastery was built in the 20th century, but the caves served as hermit cells. Tirthapuri Monastery is popular with pilgrims; one of the caves preserves a footprint of Guru Rinpoche. Western Tibet was the center of the Guge Kingdom, which controlled trade between India and China.
The ruins of the kingdom's capital, the fortress of Tsaparang, are still impressive. After seven centuries of prosperity, the kingdom disappeared in 1630 due to civil strife. Ancient temples with frescoes remain in the Pyanka Caves and Dongkar Grottoes. The final destination is the village of Darchin, where the Mount Kailash trek begins, usually taking three days. Tourists need a special permit to trek around Mount Kailash.