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It's like installing wood bevel siding, except it won't warp or rot
“OK, so at the beginning of Building Resilience season 2 we said we were going to look at a couple of projects,
…is probably our best bet.”
Plan of attack: order of operations for bevel siding installation
The first step is snapping lines on the slicker max to indicate stud placement.
Next is to rip the top 1-½ inches from a siding board and use the top as a starter strip. Tack the starter strip between the studs and 1/4-inch above any horizontal trim or flashing.
If you can’t fill a course with a single piece, break siding joints over a stud and use a butt flashing behind the joints.
You can either face caulk the ends or back caulk them. Either way, leave a slight gap at the end to allow the caulk to make the connection.
Either way, leave a ¼-inch gap between any horizontal trim or flashing and the bottom of the starter strip.
AZEK recommends staggering the joints every 32 inches. Nail the siding in the thick part of the bottom, about ⅝ -inch above the bottom and two inches from the ends.
Then all you have to do is keep doing the same thing until the wall is covered.
Jobsite know-how: installing bevel siding
Stephen begins by drawing lines to indicate studs,
And be places a spacer block to keep the starter strip off the metal flashing.
Rather than tack the starter strip on and then nail the first course of siding on, they guys do it all in one step.
Because this is a short run next to the door, they can fill the space with single pieces.
The gap below the first course also affords an opportunity to adjust the level if, for some reason, the flashing and trim below are not perfectly level.
Turns out, these guys are pretty good at their job, so they go about nailing it. About ⅝ above the bottom, through the thick part of the siding…
…and two inches from the end.
Now we decide to place the spacer blocks differently on the other side of the door.
And speaking of spacer blocks, Sol made up a couple for this task. The first ones are just small blocks that are 4-inches wide, which is the amount of reveal they are looking for on this project.
As he slides the block along, he uses the straight edge to square up from the nails below, assuring a straight line of fasteners.
For all of the following courses, he had different blocks: they hook under the lower course of siding and extend up enough to set the 4-inch reveal.
Sliding the butt flashing behind the joint directs any water leaks out before it can get in.
And just when Sol is looking like Super Sol, he fumbles the block.
Courses are staggered 32-inches, and again, he uses the edge of the block to keep the fasteners consistent.
The blocks also have lines 2-inches from either end to guide fastener placement for end nails.
That’s pretty much the basics of Bevel siding installation using AZEK’s new bevel siding product.
The tricky parts come up during the tricky parts. Like this head casing, Sol had to cope with.
Advanced bevel siding installation: jigsaw puzzle pieces
Or worse, the next course of siding, which has about a zillion cuts, notches, and curved profiles.
The process begins with a map. It doesn't have to be pretty; it has to be accurate.
So Sol draws the shape and then starts filling in the numbers.
And then transferring the map to the terrain.
He marks the notches, draws the lines, and traces the profile of the head casing — which is worth a slightly closer look.
In addition to our PVC cladding, we also have our trims—fascia, belly band, and whatnot.
…really gives it that classic period look.”
It also gives you an excuse to break out the coping saw because, yeah. Good old classic profiles!
Sol copes the profiles, cuts the horizontal lines with a Skilsaw, hits the notches with a chop saw, and cleans up the ends with a multi-tool.
Finally, he cleans up the cut edges with a utility knife, and they see how close it is to a perfect fit.
Darned close. With a little adjusting at the head casing, they slip it back into place—being very careful not to break it accidentally.
Sol checks the reveal and nails that puppy home. Above the door, where the siding is very narrow, he switches fasteners to s smaller finish nail.
And that wall is finished, too.
Now the guys work their way up the rest of the wall while we look forward to what we’re going to look at next time:
Crazy details inside the house we’ve been looking at the outside of all this time.
Look at that fireplace and the tilework. And the beam with recessed light strips and more beautiful cabinetry and countertops.
We’ll be walking through the whole project and peeping deeper at the details next time…
On Building Resilience.