How to Easily Finish Curved Hemlines with Fishbone Lining
Fishbone Lining Hemming Stitching
A technique used for garment edge finishing to prevent fabric fraying.
Advantages: Easier to control compared to the traditional rolled hem presser foot, suitable for beginners.
Disadvantages: Cannot be completed in one step, requires two rounds of stitching.
It is suitable for both straight and curved lines. The hemming width is usually 1 to 2 centimeters, and for a 1centimeter width, a 2centimeter seam allowance is needed.
This method is suitable for curved shirt hems and the hems of lightweight skirts. If the hemming range is large, such as the hem of a wedding dress, using a long fishbone lining may not be ideal.
Fishbone linings come in different widths and varying levels of stiffness. Choose the appropriate type based on the fabric. Fishbone linings are consumables that can be reused, but if deformed or if the transverse short fishbone decreases, they should be replaced.
Instructions for use:
The purpose of soaking treatment is to ensure that the fishbone lining can better adapt to the fabric during sewing and subsequent use, maintaining its functionality and stability.
First, trim one side of the fishbone lining.
Next, tear apart the long bone of the fishbone lining according to the required stitching width, revealing the short fishbone, which indicates the desired final seam width.
Curved stitching: Start stitching from the front side. The start and end points need to be backstitched to secure them; otherwise, the torn ends may separate. Stitch according to the width of the exposed short fishbone from the fishbone lining roll, making sure not to sew over the adjacent long fishbone lining. If the stitching accidentally catches the transverse short fishbone, carefully pull it apart and trim it after completing the stitch.
The length of the fishbone lining can be slightly longer than the stitching length, making it less likely to come loose from the fabric and easier to roll.
Adjust the needle spacing to be small, but not too small or too large. Smaller spacing ensures the fishbone lining grips the fabric securely and is less likely to loosen.
After completing the first round of stitching, fold the fishbone lining to the inside (reverse side) of the fabric. Adjust the seam allowance, making it the desired width for stitching, and secure with topstitching. Gently pull and remove the fishbone lining roll, and trim if necessary when encountering transverse short fishbone in the stitching. The first line of stitching does not need to be removed.