How to Repair a Leaking Chimney!
Learn how to repair a leaking chimney on a shingle roof by removing shingles, fixing ponding water issues, installing EPDM rubber membrane, replacing chimney flashing, and tying the shingles back in correctly. In this roofing repair tutorial, Sean Campbell walks through a real chimney leak repair where water was ponding behind and beside the chimney because of poor shingle layout, flashing problems, and water buildup.
You’ll learn:
• How to repair a leaking chimney on a shingle roof
• Why water ponding behind a chimney causes roof leaks
• How to remove shingles around chimney flashing
• Why nails too close to shingle keyways can rust and leak
• How to identify flashing problems around a chimney
• Why EPDM rubber works well behind a chimney with water buildup
• How to fully adhere EPDM to the roof deck and chimney
• Why reinforced EPDM is used in debris-heavy areas
• How to clean EPDM before applying cover tape
• When to use uncured cover tape vs. cured cover tape
• How to flash inside corners around a chimney
• Why corner flashing is one of the most important leak points
• How to cut a reglet into brick or mortar
• Why counter flashing should be inserted into the wall, not just caulked on the surface
• How to bend and install new chimney counter flashing
• Why shingles should leave a water channel near the chimney
• How to caulk and tool chimney flashing for a watertight finish
Chapters:
0:00 Inspecting a leaking chimney
0:06 Water ponding behind and beside the chimney
0:24 Planning an EPDM rubber repair
0:36 Fully adhering rubber to the roof deck and chimney
0:50 Extending EPDM into the valley and past the chimney
1:03 Why EPDM helps move ponding water away
1:17 Removing old shingles and counter flashing
1:36 Measuring two feet around the chimney
1:51 Removing shingles carefully around the repair area
2:21 Bad nail placement near shingle keyways
2:53 Why rusty nails near keyways cause leaks
3:30 Removing shingles around the chimney
3:52 Delaminated shingles and high nailing issues
4:10 Tying shingles into the valley correctly
4:44 How roof pitch and roof size affect valley layout
5:06 Common leak points at chimney back pans
5:34 Existing cricket and water diversion issues
6:03 Valley nail placement mistakes
6:46 Installing reinforced EPDM rubber
7:09 Gluing the roof deck and chimney first
7:49 Letting bonding adhesive dry before setting EPDM
8:21 Why wet adhesive causes bubbles and wrinkles
9:04 Rolling EPDM up the chimney
9:24 Using a neoprene roller for better adhesion
9:51 Preparing corners for counter flashing and cover tape
10:35 Cleaning EPDM before flashing
11:13 Removing talcum powder and contamination from rubber
11:48 Uncured vs. cured cover tape
12:36 Where cured cover tape should be used
13:04 Priming EPDM before applying cover tape
13:48 Rounding corners on single-ply membrane
14:15 Lap caulk requirements at cut edges
14:35 Dry fitting uncured cover tape
15:08 Doubling cover tape for EPDM thickness
15:35 Applying cover tape without contaminating it
16:02 Stretching tape into the chimney corner
16:39 Pressing corner flashing tight
17:08 Creating a watertight inside corner
17:36 Adding the second layer of cover tape
18:11 Cover tape vs. reinforced rubber flashing
18:51 Why cover tape saves time
19:05 Cutting a reglet for counter flashing
19:29 Why to cut the reglet before installing shingles
20:03 Installing counter flashing into the mortar joint
20:18 Why hemmed metal protects the EPDM
20:41 What a reglet cut is
21:15 Why surface caulk alone is not enough
21:47 How brick absorbs and sheds water
22:17 Why deeper reglet cuts last longer
22:34 Reinstalling shingles around the chimney
22:45 Leaving exposed rubber for water flow
23:05 Leaving a debris gap at chimney corners
23:41 Making new chimney counter flashing
24:06 Measuring half-inch bends and hems
25:14 Scoring and bending metal safely
26:05 Bending the reglet lip
26:35 Avoiding a ledge that funnels water into brick
27:02 Hemming the bottom of the flashing
28:04 Test fitting counter flashing
28:42 Making larger counter flashing pieces
30:04 Adjusting reglet depth for uneven chimneys
31:03 Bending metal so water sheds naturally
32:24 Installing long counter flashing
33:03 Pinning EPDM every foot
33:19 Caulking nail heads cleanly
34:00 Choosing fasteners for counter flashing
35:02 Marking and cutting flashing returns
36:05 Using relief cuts for clean metal cuts
37:09 Bending a three-quarter-inch return
38:06 Tightening the return around the side flashing
38:44 Checking for gaps in the counter flashing
39:16 Caulking the chimney flashing
39:53 Filling the reglet with sealant
40:31 Tooling caulk into the brick and mortar
41:10 Sealing nail heads and final inspection
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