Original Logitech Driving Force Wheel Repair | DIY VR Sim Racing Rig Build Part One
Building A DIY VR Sim Racing Rig
I need to repair this ORIGINAL Logitech Driving Force racing wheel after the power connector was chewed off by the puppy. This wheel is still in almost new working condition. It works wonderfully with Assetto Corsa and Trucking sim on PC (with some adjustments..)
It's no surprise that this wheel works just as intended with Gran Turismo 4 on Playstation 2, and that's where I come in. I'm building a DIY VR Sim Racing Rig for GT4 on PS2! I'll provide a step-by-step following what I do in the video and clear up any errors along the way. We all make mistakes!
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Logitech Wheel and Pedals on eBay:
https://ebay.us/bCLNWM
PlayStation 2 on eBay:
https://ebay.us/ReXSrZ
New GoPro on eBay:
https://ebay.us/ih7B4u
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Step-By-Step:
https://rainclouddev.com/forum/index....
*MAKE SURE YOUR WHEEL IS NOT POWERED*
-Remove desk clips
The first step I take is removing the desk clips. They will prevent the case from splitting on this wheel, so It's best to just get them out of the way now. When those are gone, you're ready to go! Remove the top cover located in the center of the wheel base, closest to the driver. You may need to pry lightly to get this to pop.
identify screws top and bottom
There are four screws on top of the case. The two screws furthest from the driver are hex head screws, while the two closest to the driver (under the cover!) are Philips head. On the bottom side of the base, there are many apparent screw holes, but most of these are for interior support. My wheel only had one screw holding things together from the bottom. If its not popping open, use a small flashlight to verify there are no screws holding the base together.
-she's open!
You now have a full interior view of the Original Logitech Driving Force Wheel. You can clearly see where the motor, gears and potentiometer are. (They may be due for an upgrade!) The simplicity inside is beautiful!
-find the power in
locate the original Surface-mount power connector. It will be on the left side when viewing the open wheel with the control board closest to you.
look at the adapter
I make an ERROR in this step, but it can be avoided. Look at the original POWER ADAPTER for your wheel, and find the polarity symbol. This shows you which part of the power connector is which. I soldered my colors backwards, but the polarity is the same.
Use a meter in continuity mode to verify your polarity(the right way around!)
Once you know where everything will go, start tinning everything-both ends of the xt60 connector, all the wires, and if you can dab some fresh on your control board solder points. get your heat shrink ready and get to tinning! I like to clip the ends off my wires after soldering to keep things tidy. Solder it up!
I take a little bit of a rash approach to this, but I used some snips to create a small path for the new power wires to enter the case. At this point I realize my wires are reversed and have to just be ok with it. I checked everything and it was electrically correct, just the wire colors aren't ideal.
It's finally time to test it out!
I pulled out a Playstation 2 and powered everything up! Simply plugging the Logitech Driving Force Wheel into the USB provides the power and signal to show it's working! YAY! I show another power cycle at the very end. Once the rig is put together we'll see it's full startup sequence. The resistance against my steering hand is evidence that the wheel is working just as originally intended!
It works!
Stay tuned for more on this project. Showing off the progress with be a lot of fun!
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Dispersion Relation by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 license. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/...
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