808Dragon.com Chris Lung Surviving 10-3-01 - Deadly Waipio Waves
No one else dared to go out... I paddled a 1/4 mile out in waves bigger than houses pounding on me... hardcore 45 minutes of fighting b4 I came in & got slammed face 1st on a boulder in sum car sized shore break... Well, I didn't Die at least... Only minor bleeding, Built Hawaiian Tough I guess... I Go Hard or when da others Go Home!