Avoid Common Pitfalls When Adjusting Cap Ease
Today on Fit Tip Tuesday I'm sharing a sleeve fitting challenge from last weekend's Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting. We hit a bump in the road while trying to adjust the ease in a sleeve cap. We had been working hard all day (literally, it was a 6 hour class) & one student reported that she had negative ease in the sleeve cap. We started adjusting the cap to add ease. Then she realized she was using the pattern piece without the adjustments made to the armhole. She walked the sleeve cap into the adjusted armhole and there ended up to be 1 3/4" of ease. The goal was to have about 1" of ease. I was thinking about how I grade my pattern pieces and how a graded set of sizes look. I suggested that she trim off 1/4" of the edge of the sleeve cap (which would bring the pattern piece down a size) to reduce the ease before we slash and overlapped to get rid of the rest of the excess ease. After doing that she reported that the ease had increased by 1/2"... What the heck??? I tested my own theory in class and got a similar result as my student.... Join me to take a close look at the sleeve cap and how removing ease might not give you the cap length you were shooting for!
00:00 Intro
01:31 What a graded sleeve pattern looks like and how the shape changes as the sizes get bigger
03:00 How to walk a sleeve cap along the armhole to determine how much ease there is
05:35 What happened when I trimmed off 1/4" and walked the sleeve cap to check the ease
07:58 Why trimming off the edge of the sleeve cap did NOT significantly reduce cap ease
10:05 How to slash and overlap the sleeve to reduce ease in the cap
13:37 I overlapped the pattern 1 1/8"... What was the reduction in cap ease??
17:54 Conclusions and
19:33 How I fixed my Christian Dior knit top + a pro tip to get stretched out seams back in shape
21:21 Outro
Fab Fit Friday - Designing a New Top with a Classic - The Tee Pattern
https://youtube.com/live/NJjBoINwZTo
The Misses' Tee PDF Version: https://jsterndesigns.com/product/the...
The Misses' Tee Print Version: https://jsterndesigns.com/product/the...
The Women's Tee PDF Version: https://jsterndesigns.com/product/the...
The Women's Tee Print Version: https://jsterndesigns.com/product/the...
Links to Everything J Stern Designs (Email, Zoom Classes & More!) https://linktr.ee/jsterndesigns
J Stern Designs Discord Channel Member Invitation: / discord