Selecting and installing a door closer: Step-by-step instructions

Опубликовано: 14 Март 2026
на канале: Do it yourself
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How to choose a door closer. How to install a door closer yourself. What to do if the closer doesn't fit. What you need to know before buying a door closer. What are right- and left-hand doors? Door closer installation, diagram, and drawing. Problems installing a door closer. How to choose the right door closer. How to install a door closer on a flimsy door. Step-by-step instructions for installing a door closer. How to tell if a door is right- or left-handed. What to do if the door closer doesn't fit, if there's not enough space for it? What to do if the door slams loudly? Door closer adjustment. How to adjust a door closer. My workshop:    • МАСТЕРСКАЯ  
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Hello everyone! Today I'll talk about how to choose and install a door closer. The choice of this device is determined by several criteria:
1. If the closer is installed on an entrance door rather than an interior door, and you live in an area where temperatures drop below freezing, you need a frost-resistant mechanism. These closers are marked with a "winter" symbol.
2. You need to know, at least approximately, the weight of the door leaf. Closers are manufactured according to weight categories. If you install a "light" closer on a heavy door, it will be ineffective and will quickly fail. If you do it the other way around, opening the door will require too much effort. Children and the elderly may simply not be able to handle it. Moreover, the spring force is not adjustable. You can only slightly adjust the geometry by moving the closer closer to the hinges. But this is a half-measure.
3. To clearly understand where and how the closer will be installed, you need to understand whether the door is on the right or left. A right-hand door is one that, when opened toward you, exposes the hinges to the right, and vice versa.

So, the closer has been selected and purchased. The second preparatory step is to study the instructions. There's a template there; by cutting it out and attaching it to the door, you can get a ready-made layout for the mounting holes. Mounting options allow for different opening angles, which can also be important. In this case, I have a right-hand entrance door. Since it's desirable to protect the closer from atmospheric and temperature influences, I will be installing it indoors. The installation diagram requires attaching it to the door frame, and the lever arm is attached to the door.
And here's the first problem. The top of the door jamb prevents the door closer platform from locking into place. What should I do? Here's how: I need to add space for the platform. You can use a rigid angle bracket for this, but I chose a lightweight rectangular aluminum profile; the pipe is stiffer than the angle bracket. My door frame is steel, with 2mm thick walls. I'll be cutting the threads directly into it. If the frame is wooden or reinforced plastic, I'll choose fasteners that match the material.
I didn't use a template; I took the dimensions from the drawing in the instructions and transferred them to the door and frame. I drilled the holes for the M6 ​​threads with a 5mm drill. First, I fastened the door closer and its homemade bracket with one screw. Then, I mark the centers of the remaining holes with the same drill.
All the threads are cut, and the door closer is ready to be installed. Pay attention to the instruction manual – the adjustment screws should be on the hinge side! I drilled the holes for the rod in the door using the screws included with the door closer – my door has a fairly thick and sturdy trim. But sometimes you have to resort to other fastening methods. This includes drilling right through, leaving the decorative bolt heads exposed. Now you need to screw the lever on, adjusting the rod length. Lock the rod nut.
The final step of installation is adjusting the closing and latching speeds. My door slams too hard. The screws on the hinge side are not always easy to reach. A short screwdriver is needed. I used this angle adapter. We adjust the mechanism by turning the screws in quarter-turn increments, checking the result each time. Now we can say that the closer is adjusted correctly. The door closes, not very quickly but not too slowly, up to an angle of about 10 degrees, and then the latching channel starts working, which won't "kick" anyone entering, but will make the door slam softly.
I wish you all the best in your endeavors and enjoyment of your work. And good health to everyone!