DIY Drilling Machine Choosing a Scheme
How to make a drilling machine. Which machine scheme to choose. In the end, I made the machine like this: • Сверлильный станок: ЧуднОе решение - СЛАВН... Here is an analysis of the possibilities and a request for advice from viewers. The requirements for it are simple but serious: it should not be difficult to assemble from available parts, it should be several times cheaper than a store-bought one and at the same time be functional at low speeds and reliable.
I have a so-called "drill stand". I am not going to describe its pros and cons here, I will only say that it is suitable for small and low-load jobs. Those of you who have decided to assemble a reliable and fairly accurate mechanism understand that you should refuse to make a drill stand yourself.
So, what do we have left.
1. The classic version, copying factory analogues. This is a round column on a cast iron bed with a movable table. The motor, as a rule, is opposite the spindle body. Belt drive, feed to the movable quill using a gear and rack. A flawless scheme debugged over centuries. It is not suitable for us for one reason: to make such a machine requires a huge amount of turning and other precision processing. Such a machine will not be cheap, nor affordable for the average craftsman to make.
2. The scheme most often used by DIYers. A column made of a square profile pipe, sliding along the column of either the same pipe of a larger size, or a bearing unit. The drill with the chuck can be fed to the workpiece by the entire rocker arm, together with the motor. This greatly simplifies the design, a separately moving quill and a long spindle are no longer needed, and from turning work you can get by with only the main shaft of the machine - the spindle. It can be easily and inexpensively turned by a turner. Probably the most popular feed device among DIYers is a steering wheel reel rotating in the turns of a taut cable. Simple and effective. 3. An unusual, very interesting scheme. The insides of a screwdriver are mounted in a pipe. Everyone knows that a screwdriver has a remarkable advantage over a drill: with the same size, a screwdriver provides excellent torque at low speeds. And low speeds are a guarantee that the drill will not "burn" and become dull. Here I drilled 12 holes with a diameter of 20 mm with an 18-volt screwdriver. In this scheme, the entire motor-belt-spindle-chuck system is no longer needed. Everything is in one bottle. And there is also a ratchet safety device. I really like this scheme, most likely I will start from it. But it is only suitable if the motor, fan, and gearbox of the screwdriver have the same diameter. And my powerful screwdriver, which I do not mind wasting on a craft, has a much larger motor than the gearbox. 4. In the store, I liked one Japanese machine. In it, the entire body together with the motor is also fed to the workpiece, and this is very neatly designed. I can’t say for sure yet what I will succeed in, but most likely, I will try to hide my screwdriver in a similar body, and bring the controls outside. In the feed mechanism, I will use a toothed belt and a gear from a VAZ 2109. As always, this work will be described in maximum detail. As always, you will be able to copy all the drawings and diagrams. But this is later, and now, as always, I am waiting for your opinions, your comments and suggestions, for which I am always very grateful to you.