RomaUvarovDesign Spring Summer' 2020 GYPSY WEDDING
“The Time of the Gypsies” in the S/S 2020 collection by Roma Uvarov Design
The Spring Collection by Roma Uvarov Design is dedicated to the romanticism of the free gypsy life. This is where the riot of prints, the embroidery depicting birds, and the bright roses on the jackets stem from.
The Russian Designer Roma Uvarov is well-known for his bright, theatrical, and highly maximalist style. It is hard to imagine a film director closer to him in spirit, than Emir Kusturica – the master of phantasmagoria, who makes films where unbelievable events happen to people, who at first glance appear normal. One of his films, “The Time of the Gypsies,” released in 1988 has inspired the Spring/Summer collection by Roma Uvarov Design. At the centre of attention in this new season is the romanticism of the free gypsy life.
There are almost no single tone pieces in this collection – the fabrics are decorated in different tones of floral prints. Some of the dresses are woven from coloured rags in the patchwork style, while in other styles, floral patterns are blended with a soft check pattern or a textured décor made with sequins. Uvarov also experiments with structures: to create one of the jackets for example, he “glued” traditional fabric onto plastic.
Inspired by traditional gypsy dress, Uvarov is counting on oversize: everything, from the dresses to the blouses with balloon sleeves is designed to sit as loose as possible so that nothing would prevent their owner from breaking into a run, or into a dance at any moment. The asymmetric pinafore skirts have become an intriguing detail of the collection, they are worn over slacks and help to create contemporary, and bright, multi-layered looks.
The suits in this collection are inspired by clothes worn by guests at gypsy weddings. Classical suits designed by Uvarov have been broadened, the shoulders have become enormous. They are however decorated with huge overlapping roses – in the best traditions of a dashing, gypsy wedding chic. This same theme of “bad taste,” taken to the max, is reflected in the accessories: massive chains, rings, and golden earrings, which, the designer proposes, should all be worn together lavishly.
The Roma Uvarov Design brand supports the principles of sustainable fashion. Therefore, vintage materials are used in many collections under this label. This is true of the new Spring collection. Uvarov wove the evening clasp bags from old carpets, and embroidered the accessories with beads from dismantled necklaces, while components from Soviet era crystal chandeliers were used in the décor for the jackets, and belts, and in all manner of other things. Old coins from different countries have been made into buttons on a mohair cardigan, while ragged oracle cards have been made - into charms. Plastic flowers, which in this collection are used as 3D-décor, - are also an example of upscaling: the label’s team purchased these from a wide variety of people, who had grown tired of these flowers in their apartments.
Embroidery depicting birds, which have become one of the leitmotifs of the season, are also inspired by vintage embroidered towels, which Roma Uvarov found at a flea market. His team restored these embroideries, replicating them by hand on blouses, and dresses. They fitted perfectly into the theme of the collection – according to their traditions the gypsy people are descended from birds, which at some point came down to Earth and turned into people. Up to the present day, birds have remained a symbol of the soul in gypsy tradition.