Weekend Whipper: Flubbed Clip, Big Whip (2015)
Last climb of the day, “everyone decided it was my turn to lead,” Michael Presgraves told Rock and Ice.
“I was excited to lead for my first time, just didn't know if I was ready but I went anyways,” Presgraves says.
After making an overhead clip, a friend, responsibly, asked him about the orientation. Presgraves responded that the side of the rope attached to him was “the one going over” the carabiner—the correct way.
Presgraves mistakenly thought he was back-clipped and went to fix the rope when he lost his grip. With lots of slack in the system, Presgraves went for a ride. Luckily, he was okay.
Lesson: If you’re new to leading, learn the difference between a proper clip and a back-clip before leaving the ground. If you back-clip and do not have the strength to fix the mistake, take. Clip in direct if you can and fix the rope, or rest until you’ve recovered enough to unclip and re-clip safely.
Bottom line—listen to intuition when it comes to leading. Presgraves didn’t feel ready for his lead and should have wanted for another day. There’s no shame in passing up the lead—it’s called the sharp end for a reason.
Happy Friday and climb safe this weekend!
Video submitted by Michael Presgraves. To submit your own Weekend Whipper, email [email protected]