DIY Fence.
Do-It-Yourself Fence.
Hello.
Looking ahead, I will say that a 25-meter wooden fence made with my own hands cost me about $880. If you use hired labor instead of your own hands, the price of the fence will be much higher.
The estimate is attached at the end of the video.
Since my videos are watched on all continents by residents of completely different climatic zones and conditions, I will skip the arrangement of the foundation for a wooden fence.
The foundation system is selected depending on the climate and there are already working proven solutions for each region.
In addition, the topic of arranging a fence with your own hands is, first of all, the topic of design and visual perception of our facade.
Specifically, in my case, at a design temperature in winter of -22˚C, metal pillars with a cross-section of 80x80 mm with a wall thickness of 3 mm were poured into concrete to a freezing depth of 1 m.
A shallow tape with reinforcement was poured over the pillars.
The result was something like a pile-and-grillage foundation.
The final height of the base seemed insufficient to me, so I raised its level by another 20 cm with concrete blocks.
If you are interested in the topic of arranging foundation systems in my climate zone, then the channel already has several videos on this topic.
Let me just remind you of the general rules: metal cannot be painted before pouring concrete, it is better to tie metal ties with wire rather than weld them, concrete gains strength in 28 days.
Well, then creativity.
We paint the visible above-ground parts of the pillars of the future fence.
We cut the pillars to the required size and close their open ends from external precipitation with plastic caps.
It is a little inconvenient to build a new fence parallel to the existing one, but this way we protected the territory from external penetration.
When the new fence is built, the old one will be immediately dismantled, so do not be confused by the existing picture at this stage.
Then we purchased pine boards of natural moisture content for maximum savings.
We cut the wood for the fence to size and brush it with a gas burner.
There are many beautiful videos on YouTube where people brush wood with fire using the "Japanese" technology, tying the boards into a kind of pipe and setting them on fire from the inside.
Combustion in such wooden structures occurs very well and is somewhat reminiscent of the work of a rocket stove, but...
Despite the beautiful picture, this is a very long and complex process, in which the firing process is very poorly controlled, which can affect the result.
The easiest and fastest way to do this work is with a gas burner.
Let's come down to Earth and look at the estimate for arranging a fence with your own hands.
The price of gas is slightly more than 2 percent of the total amount, but I do not insist.
Next, we clean the boards from excess coals with a metal brush and soak them in used motor oil.
You can use any oil that you find cheaper.
We attach the boards prepared in this way to our posts in any convenient way.
Personally, I first attach vertical wooden posts to the posts, and then screw horizontal parts to the posts with regular cheap self-tapping screws.
The width of the spans along the axes of the posts turned out to be 2.4 m, the height above the base is about 1.7 m, horizontal boards with a cross-section of 150x25 mm, gaps between the slats are 18 mm.
The last step is to install the wicket.
The wicket frame is welded from a profile steel pipe with a cross-section of 40x20 mm, with a wall thickness of 2 mm.
We weld it directly on the weight in order to maximally adjust its dimensions between the existing posts.
Do not forget to leave gaps between the wicket frame and the posts: on the side of the hinges - 5 mm, on the side of the future lock 8 mm.
To prevent the wicket frame from skewing, it is customary to arrange a diagonal brace or tightening (for example, from the same pipe or corner).
I only had 12 mm diameter reinforcement.
In this case, I used 2 pieces.
Reinforcement, unlike profile power products (angle, channel, I-beam or pipe) does not work in compression at all, therefore it can only perform the tightening function.
Of course, many will say that only the upper tightening works here and it is better to run it diagonally along the gate frame, and the lower one can be removed altogether.
Yes, that's right, only our vertical profile will weaken greatly after cutting the lock into it.
And also, keep in mind that the metal will expand when heated, and contract when cooled.
And in order to minimize the forces of linear expansion of the frame metal, the tightening installed in this way slightly restrains possible movements of the lock relative to the gate hinges.
Although perhaps I am wrong and am ready to listen to constructive criticism.
We paint the gate for our fence and install the lock, cylinder and handle.
Thank you for your attention!