Overview of Washing Machine Shock Absorbers (Dampers)
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I want to say right away that dampers currently vary little in quality. Even a genuine damper isn't always better than its replacement. You should understand that the design of a modern damper is so simple that skimping on any parts is pointless. Many people ask which damper works better: one with a metal frame or one with a plastic one. If you're not too picky, the service life of both is roughly the same, but there are some nuances. In plastic parts, the rod is usually removable, allowing the brake pad to be replaced, which is not the case with similar dampers with a cylindrical iron base. If you haven't found a genuine vibration damper for your washing machine, the key parameters for replacing the damper are: length, bushing diameter, mounting, and compression force. These are the key factors when selecting this part. There are also many questions about the correct compression force. The key is not to overdo it; if you have a top-loading machine, you can use between 80 and 120 Newtons. If you have a front-loading machine, you can install a shock absorber with a force of 40 to 100 Newtons. For a machine with a load capacity of 6 kilograms or more, shock absorbers with a force of 100 to 150 N are installed. For example, a Samsung with a 4.5 kg load capacity comes with a 60 N vibration damper from the factory. I don't think the people working at the factory are ignorant, so it's best to stick to these parameters. Another caveat: replacing the shock absorber yourself is generally straightforward. However, there are brands like Russian-assembled Indesit, where replacing the damper is quite challenging, but you can easily replace the brake pad. It's advisable to choose the same damper as the one on your machine, remove the pad, and install it in the upper damper housing.